The Monmouth Colours

  This flag was donated to the Monmouth County Historical Association  by Mrs. Marguerite Potter Bixler, the great- great- granddaughter of Capt. William Wilson of the First Pennsylvania Regiment. According to family tradition it had been captured by Wilson at the Battle of Monmouth on 28 June 1778.  It was supposedly the flag of Lt. Colonel Henry Monckton, who commanded the 2nd Grenadier Battalio and was killed leading his command in the battle. Wilson also captured a sword believed to have  belong to Monckton.  The first recorded mention of the flag is an 1874 account in the American Historical Review.   The color was seen at the Bellefonte, PA, home of Capt. William Wilson Potter, grandson of Capt. Wilson, and that it was stained and torn along its staff edge. 

The flag is described in the museums catalog.  "A rectangular flag consisting of a yellow silk ground, pieced from four lengths of fabric sewn horizontally along selvedge edges. In the upper left corner, a British union canton sewn to the yellow silk, offset three inches from the top edge, pieced together of plain weave white and blue silk, with red silk brocade central cross. A pole sleeve on the left edge of the flag has been folded underneath."

  Certain features of the flag indicate it is an American rather than British colour.  Probably a division color from the 1st Pennsylvania Regiment. The presence of the British union canton, often seen on American colors in the early years of the war, could have led to the tradition that the color was British. American divisional colors were generally plain but a British color would have had both a symbol and a unit designation. Also, a British color would not have had an inset canton.  But a number of surviving American colors do. The red and white crosses and blue field of the canton are formed of red silk (Damas), blue silk (watered or moire effect), and white silk. The materials used, the proportions of the crosses, and the very wide white edging to the Cross of St. George are not typical for British flags. The materials and construction techniques used suggest that it was quite probably "home-made" of fabrics available to the seamstress

 

New rivers

 

In cleaning up the old painting table yesterday I found a bunch of  Darico Foamies Sheets I had bought I cannot remember when.  These are the town sheets you can find craft stores.  They are about a 1/8 inch thick and 18 inches by 12 inches.  Why did I buy them?  I can not remember but I thought I should use them for something.   But then I remembered at a Cold Wars convention I had picked up cheaply a set of narrow streams made from this same material.  I thought I would put together a set of rivers about six inches wide.

I cut the sheets in half the long  the long way to have six lengths.  I then put a mixture of your and water along the edge and sprinkled static grass on it.  In no time at all I had a set of straight rivers.  These were wide enough to fit my bridges on.  I then cut up another sheet to make shorter sections and some pie shaped pieces to make curves and bends.  Not bad for a hours work!  If I can find some glossy finish I will use that to make them look better.  That is if I can find some around here.  

Well, they will not win first place for terrain but they were free and I do not think look too bad.  

Liberty Flags

 

Yet another type of flag available to American Rev War gamers are the so called "Liberty" flags .  Usually smaller then the regimental Standard these were locally made for militia regiments or were decorated division colors.  General Charles Lee Suggested in 1775 that " each regiment or battalion was to have a large Regimental Standard as well as four smaller grand division colors, on each of which was to be embroidered the word "Liberty."

That a number of  towns had followed this practice is note in a political cartoon depicting the fighting in 19th April.  The American forces are marching under a banner similar to the Union flag with "Liberty" in its center.  

 In addition the town of Taunton Massachusetts had a flag made.  It has a red field, the Union in the upper canton and the words "Liberty and Union."

Following the battle of Long Island August 1776 the Hessian regiment Rall reported it captured from a American Regiment a small color, "which was of red damask and bore the motto Liberty."  This possibly was from the New Jersey militia regiment of Colonel Philip Johnson which had been guarding Flatbush road where it cut through the Flatbush pass and located in what is now the North East corner of Prospect Park.  In addition Major Carl Leopold Baurmster , Hessian Adjutant General reported the capture of eleven American colors each with the motto "Liberty" on them after the battle.  After the capture of Fort Washington a number of colors were also captured.  These were described as "new" and were yellow, white, and light blue.  One Pennsylvania regiment's colors were described as having the figure of a riflemen on it.

In the Schenectady County Historical Society is preserved a local militia liberty flag.  It has faced to a dull brown color, but was once described as green or blue.  The word liberty is on both sides made from a white ribbon. 

So, it appears these flags were actually used and saw service.  They make a easy way to add color to your militia regiments in the table top.

Veterans of Recreated Wars

 

A good friend (hello Scott!) Suggested I visit Facebook and check out a site dedicated to "retired" reenactors called "The Veterans of Recreated Wars. "  It's a place where they can put up pictures from events long ago and talk about past events and good times.  He mentioned that there were a few pictures of my old group there too as well as people we have not seen in years.

I am not on Facebook but Janine is.  So off we went and explored the site.  It was a nice trip down memory lane and filled with most interesting pictures of all eras of history.  Very heavy into American Civil War and WW2. I only did American Rev War as a reenactor in the 1970's and 1980's as well as with my time with the National Park Service.  I was with the Colonels company 23rd Royal Welch Fusiliers.  It did bring back many memories but not as many pictures of Rev War as I might have liked.  But it was worth a visit and many of you out there who are on Facebook might wish to visit the site evan if they never were a reenactor.  Lots of great pictures of uniforms and equipment.

I also downloaded a couple pictures of my group at the "Battles" of White Plains in 1976 and Brandywine in 1977.  I do not know who took most of the pictures so cannot credit them except to say they came from that Facebook site. Photo at the Top of page is from Brandywine 1977.  The  next two are from White Plains 1976.  The last picture is from I did not know where.  But the black and white picture from White Plains  was set up and done by the artist Ron Tunison.

Enjoy!

Charge of the Light Brigade rules

 

I have been ask a number of times what rules I use for the Crimean War. They are "Charge of the Light Brigade." A home brewed self published rules from the author David Raybin so possibly only a few of you have tried them.   I will state right off I am a big fan of these rules. I like simple rules, but with a twist. I like regiments to look like regiments.  And it is important to me that that a group of colorful miniature soldiers represents such and such a regiment.  I want a game I can play in a evening, gives a period "feel" for the time period played, have fun with and come to a conclusion.  "Charge of the Light Brigade" does all of these. Here is a essay on how they play.

The rules are a simple I Go U Go but with a difference.  Each side rolls for initiative with high side getting first go.  If you won the roll last time you add one to your roll.  Each of your regiments or batteries do one action (move, change formation, fire or remove a morale point).  To move roll two dice (or more depending on formation) and that is how far you can move.   After all your units have moved  you may spend a command point (CP) per unit and that unit may do a second thing.

  Here is something that sets this set of rules aside from all others. The author has taken the simple move/counter move system and twisted it. Every unit has a commander (i.e. Colonel). He has so many command points (CP). More if he and the regiment are good, less if mediocare or poor. Russians often get around 8 (sluggish, dull)  while British line get 12 and elite Guards might get as many of 16.  Better units can do more at critical times. But when your CP are gone they are gone.

OK, now it is your turn, and every unit on your side has done one free action. You may then spend a CP and do something else. Fire, remove a Morale marker or what ever. It gives you a chance to take advantage of something or react to what is happeneing on the table. BUT for every action there is a reaction and the enemy now gets to react against that unit and can either return fire at you or change position/facing.   But only against the enemy that spent that CP.   In a past game a Russian battalion removed a Morale pip by paying a CP. The British reacted by firing at the unit and puting 2 morale pips right on back (darn good shooting with the Guards who rolled four 6's). So you spends your money and takes your chaces.  This portion of the rules is what gets a lot of comments and attention from people who  have played this game for the first time. And rightly so. It is simple, inovative and fun. But I would recommend a GM to run the first few games you try to ensure you all stay on tract and not move ahead.  To track CP I put a sticky note under the command figure stand with the number of that units CP.

  Firing is simple. You throw 1D6 per stand for Infantry and 2D6 per artillery stand. Cross refinance with the firing chart for weapon vs. target and this gives you the chances for a hit. Since there is a possible saving roll you might not lose all those figures hit. Yes, the dreaded saving roll.  But here it takes the place of all those calculations you have to do with other rules.  Watch out for double 6's as they can cause a morale marker to drop onto your unit.  Each infantry stand has four figures. Once all four figures are gone you remove the stand.  Until then the stand fights on.

To me, the neat thing about this system is that you forget about calculation, tables and charts. Hits, saves and morale are all tied into each other. The save chart also brings a little of the old "national modifiers" into the mix. With Russians, who get saved on a 5 or 6 no matter how many stands are left you have to beat each one with a stick until they are all dead. You get that steady, dogged feeling you read about. The British start with a high save chance (they dodge bullets like the bat man said the rules auther) but as they loose stands save chances go way down so they wither away. A little fragile. Poor Johnny Turk never gets a save

Morale is a sneaky system that most folks don't think a lot about until it bites them! You get a morale pip for any number of things (crossing an obstacle, being fired at or having friends route past you). Since you subtract 1 pip from every die roll morale effects everything you do. Move, shot or fight it ties into morale.

In a past game a Russia commander with three morale markers on a regiment found out fast that he could not shoot, or save casualties with that unit. With morale markers, once you get into trouble it comes fast and furious. To me this is a superior system then used in many rules. The unit is effected, and everything it can do is effected.

Close Combats takes a bit getting used to since it is very different from most rules. You do not charge like in other rules. You move within 2' of the enemy. THEN, you would have to pay a Command Point or wait till next turn to close and fight. This gives the defender a chance to do something. Like blast the enemy with a close range volley that causes casualties or mabey a morale marker.  It is actually hard to close into close combat due to small arms fire.  But when you do it can be devastating.

  I really love these rules. The game feels like the Crimean to me based on my reading.  Also for a I Go U Go both sides get to do something so no sitting around. In my games Russians tend to form columns (or at least reinforced lines) and try and close with the British quickly.  (One player has nicked named them "Zulu's in overcoats.") Russian artillery is better then the allies and there is a lot of it.  Russian cavalry is, well, sluggish.  The British tend to want to shoot at things. And shoot a lot. Cavalry is small but very aggressive.  By the way small numbers of cavalry will not damage infantry who can usually shoot them down before they close. Many of my games have seen a single British battalion stopping massed charge like at Balaklva.  The French are interesting as their line have muskets while elite troops like Zouaves have rifles and  more CP.  So each army is very different from the other.  You have to work with what you have and get the best out of them.