They Fought bravely...

  They ...fought bravely, but were unfortunate: " The True Story of  Rhode Island's "Black Regiment" and the Failure of Segregation in Rhode Island's Continental nLine, 1777-1783.

  "Rhode Island’s “Black Regiment” of the American Revolutionary War is fairly well-known to students of American History. Most published histories of the small colored battalion from Rhode Island are clearly biased in favor of the “regiment” and tend to interpret it as an elite military unit. However, a detailed study and analysis of Rhode Island’s segregated Continental Line by the author reveals a “military experiment” that was beset with difficulties from its start and ultimately failed as a segregated unit in 1780. In this work, many of the popular stories of Rhode Island’s “Black Regiment” are proven to be myths. Follow the accurate historical stories of the colored and white soldiers of Rhode Island’s Continental Line whose courage and sacrifices helped create an independent nation." ( From Amzon review)

   I do highly encourage anyone who is looking for a VERY detailed history of the regiment with service records of all the men who served to look into another book that was published in late 2015. At just shy of 1000 or so pages, “They “… fought bravely, but were unfortunate: ” The True Story of Rhode Island’s “Black Regiment” and the Failure of Segregation in Rhode Island’s Continental Line, 1777-1783″ by Daniel Popek should be the go to resource for historians researching the 1st Rhode Island (1778+)/the Rhode Island Regiment (1781+).

  The book is a labor of love from the author.  It is packed with detailed information and very well researched.  Not a repetion of the same old, it contains new and serious research.  Privately publish this is a very big book.  Highly recommended.

Rules I use for Wargaming: War of 1812

Mr Maddison's War:
War of 1812 rules

These rules for gaming the War of 1812 originally started out as a set of rules for The American Revolution by Jim Purkey at Fife and Drum miniatures.  These are offered free on his miniature site.  I liked them, and made a few changes to better reflect the new time period.  In addition I have posted a few clarifications and additions here to how we play the game.  They provide a really fun and fast game. Since playing these rules I have had lots of wonderful games and great fun.  My title for these rules, "Mr Maddison's War meets Fife and Drum" reflects the negative image the war had among many Americans.  In addition I often use these rules for American Revolution games with my friends who do not care for Loose Files.

Please do not be fooled by the simple mechanics of these rules.  They are simple but create lots of deep thinking here.  The "I Go You Go" fire and move system has a major twist.  Casualties are removed when they happen. So it's important who fires first.  But if you move first you may pin your opponent in a unfavorable position or run down exposed units.  As I said a lot of thinking goes I to these rules.

In addition, if you like them here is a beautiful example of how to play by the author.  I really wish more rules writers would do this.  Brilliant!  As the two men from Guinness would say.

http://altefritz.blogspot.com/2017/08/fife-drum-awi-rules-tutorial.html

Now, on to my interpretation.

Here are the rules. A nice one page set ready to go!

Move first, fire second, move second, fire first:  when it is your turn to fire remove all casualties from hits.  No, casualties removed do not get to return fire that was the advantage of firing first.

Retire facing or not facing enemy:  deduct 2" from move to retire with back towards enemy.  Half move to retire facing enemy or move sideways.

Charges or moving into melee:  during your move declare charge and point out target.  Defender tests morale;  if they pass they stand and fire at charger. If not retire a column distance back shaken.  There is no charge move bonus.  Fight one round of melee then side who has lost more figures tests morale.  If they fail they retire one column move back facing the enemy.  If they pass then other side tests morale.  If both sides pass then attacker is considered to have failed to push back defender from their position.  The attacker retire one column move back facing the enemy. 

Routing units effect on other units:  ignore friendly units routing past if router is lower morale.  Take morale test if equal or better morale.

Multiple units in melee:  If two units vs one distribute casualties evenly to both units.

Wheeling regiments:   Wheels are made from the left, right, or center of the unit only.

Fences, small streams:  Units move up to them and stop move.  Next move you cross obstacles and continue your move. If both units are touching the same fence line and facing each other across it neither gets the benefit of the fence.

Artillery:  one operation costs 1/2 move, this included fire.  So you can limber and move half movement;  move full move if limbered; unlimber and fire Artillery cannot enter woods, need infantry to knock hole in fences to cross.  Any friendly unit within a friendly artillery arc of fire, if the arc of fire goes through two opposite sides of that friendly unit the artillery can not fire.  Arch of fire is measured  from cannon barrell, with of stand forward like a bowling alley


Difficult terrain (fields, Rocky ground): cost 2" for every 1" of movement in it

Woods; units stop movement at edge of woods.  They enter next turn (similar to fences).  Once in woods skirmishers troops (skirmishes or Indians)  move their full movement, while formed troops move half their movement.  Small arm range is half.  Only skirmishes get cover modifiers. Yes, it sucks for regulars in the woods (please ask General Braddock).

Indians:  always unformed, in mass formation (I.e. in a bunch).  No penalty to change direction.  In woods move full movement.  Units fired at by Indians for first time check morale.  In open clear terrain go one step down chart for firing and morale (if on line "C" use line "D").  Indians are not shock troops. They race about being obnoxious and scaring volunteers and militia who are not used to them.


Rockets:  roll  d10.
   10 = hit, one casualty and test morale.
6 - 9 = test morale
3 - 5 = miss
     2 =  hit nearest friendly unit test morale

Rules I use for Wargaming: The American Revolution

  An older set of rules which were available in the first issue of Wargames Illustrative.  Written by Andy Callan these rules capture the feel and tactics of the war. I was instantly taken with them and have been playing them since they first came out. Not to everyone's taste but a great favorite of mine.  They have brought a lot of fun games and enjoyment to me over the years.

 The Disorganization Points (DP) are a clever way to tract the temporary wavering, disruption and casulties of a regiment.  This can be caused by movement, terrain, small arms, artillery or close combat.  Better trained regiments can dress the line and reform while poorer regiments tend to fall to pieces.   This is done by removing DP's.  A unit stops, does nothing for a turn and can remove a DP based on training and quality.  In addition a mounted officer can assist by helping to remove additional DP's.   Quality in this game is vastly  superior to quantity.

Here is a link to the rules as they first appeared in WI #1
https://www.wfgamers.org.uk/andy-callans-articles/loose-files-and-american-scramble

  A personal observation of mine.   When I have played these rules with players for the first time long time wargamers get confused or bogged down.  The rules are unlike most wargamer rules out there.  But reenactors or individuals who have been in reenactment regiments pick them up just fine.  I find this most curious.  But then I do tend to think of table top miniature  games more as battle reenactments then simulations.

  Here is a quick cheat sheet for playing these rules.  They started as a quick cheat sheet put out by the Corlears Hook Fencibels.  I have made a handful of changes within these.  I have made a couple minor changes to better reflex how I interpret the game. These have been based on reading Matthew Spring's With Zeal And Bayonets.   By the way I play with 25mm figures instead of 15mm but have not changed the measurements.  Please feel free to adapt as you like.  Also, if you currently play these rules I would love to hear from you about how you play them.  Any house rules or such.

Loose Files & American Scramble Quick   Reference Sheet

Order of Play in a Turn (all movement is simultaneous)
1.Compulsory Retreats/Routs following combat in previous turns.
2.Calculate Morale effects provoked by 1 above.
3.Firing (units can fire or move not both)*
4.Allocate Command Points.
5.Move units. Announce attempted advances to contact/charges before moving.
6.Combat.
7.Re-dress ranks (according to training) of units that did not move this turn.
*skirmishers may fire then move

Command Points CP
Move own commander up to 1 die (choice of average or D6) inches = 1CP
Inspire troops in combat (give +1) = 3 CPs *
Rally (remove) one DP = 2 CPs *      * must be in contact with unit

Disorder/demoralization points DP
1st class (elite, veteran) may remove up to 2 DPs per turn if stationary and not in combat
2nd class (line) may remove 1 DP per turn as above
3rd class (green,  partisans) may remove 1 DP per turn if stationary, not in combat/shot at
4th class (militia, Indians) may only remove DPs with aid of an officer
5th class (unmotivated Indians) may only remove DPs with the aid of the Army CO
Casualties
Once a unit has taken the maximum number of DP's (5) each DP after is a casualty.  Remove a stand of infantry  (3 figures), troop cavalry (2 figures) or artillery stand.

Artillery and Small Arms Fire
Artillery Fire range under 10 inches close, 10-30 long (light) 10-36 long (medium)
Roll one D6 for each stand firing modified by below:
+1 heavy gun, target column or limbered artillery, same target/range as last turn
- 1 new target, each DP of firing stand, light gun
- 2 target in fieldwork or stone building or target in skirmish order/unlimbered
Long range inflict 1 DP for 4 or higher.
Short range inflict 1 DP for 2 or 3, 2 DPs for 4 or 5, 1 DP and 1 casualty for 6 or higher.

Infantry fire (Only skirmishing infantry can fire and move in the same turn)
Musket range 8 inches, rifles 10 inches. Roll 1 D6 for each stand firing, minus DPs of firing unit. Halve result shooting at skirmishers/unlimbered artillery, halve if target in fieldwork or building. Round up.
1 DP for each 6 rolled. Skirmishers roll again on 5, with subsequent 4,5,6 = 1 DP.

Movement
Movement is the number of dice score X inches
1st/2nd/3rd class units may move one or two average dice
4th/5th class units may move one average dice or one average plus one D6
Skirmishers may move an extra D6, Cavalry may move one or two extra D6
Formed troops get 1 DP for each 1 or 2 rolled, 1, 2 or 3 in woods.
Hessian infantry (except Jaegers and von Bose regiment in South) move one average die or one average die + 2 inches.
Cavalry who charge must roll at least 3 dice. Can change speed 1 dice up or down per turn.
Moving in woods or uphill -1 inch from each die rolled.
Wheeling, change formation or facing : pivot either right or left stand and line up figures,   1 DP (2 if under fire).
Cross fence/wall,; stop at obstacle, continue nice next turn, 1 DP (2 if under fire).
Retire facing enemy: ½ move get 1 DP if cavalry or under fire.
Heavy artillery takes two moves to limber/unlimited take 1DP
Medium artillery one turn limber/unlimited take 1DP
Light Artillery can do two operations each turn. ( move and unlimber, etc) 1DP

Morale: seeing friends retreat/rout within 6 inches
Troops ignore retreat of lower grade friends but get 1 DP if such rout within 6 inches.
If equal/higher grade friend retreats within 6 inches get 2 DPs.
If equal grade friend routs within 6 inches get 2 DPs and one stand deserts.
If higher grade friend routs within 6 inches get 3 DPs and one stand deserts.



 Combat occurs when a unit closes with enemy.   To close must declare charge to contact before movement otherwise just stop 4 inches from enemy.  Each side throws an average die modified by below:

+3 each training grade better than enemy
      defending fort or stone building
+2 defending fieldwork or wood building
      making bayonet attack*
+1 terrain advantage
      officer spends 3 CPs inspiring troops
- 3 in skirmish order
     attacked in flank/rear
- 2 each DP, each casualty
- 1 outnumbered
- 2 outnumbered 3-2
- 3 outnumbered 2-1
- 5 outnumbered 3-1 or worse   1 cavalry figure = three infantry, one gun = six infantry

Result is difference in scores:
+4 or more: Easy victory get 1 DP. 1st/2nd/3rd class obey orders. 4th/5th class pursue.

+2/3: Successful get 1 DP and (vs. infantry or artillery, not in fort, building or fieldwork) one casualty. Halt one turn.

+1/even/-1: Stand off both sides halt fight continues next turn. Each get 1 DP and (unless infantry facing cavalry or bayonet attack, or in a fort, building or fieldwork) one casualty

-2/-3/-4: Driven back get 2 DPs and one casualty. Retreat one move at maximum speed.

-5/-6/-7/-8: Defeated get 2 DPs and 2 casualties. Retreat at maximum speed behind next line of friendly troops, or next terrain obstacle if no support.

-9 or worse: Routed run away at maximum speed to beyond enemy artillery range or next terrain obstacle, whichever is further. Get 4 DPs and 2 casualties.

* Option only for British to represent aggressive tactics during war.

House rules:
Must move full distance rolled unless point out stopping point (i.e. stop at fence line or top of hill, etc).

Can roll movement for entire brigade if moving together.

Corlears Hook Fencibles House rules: after 2nd stand off in a row both sides retreat 1 average die unless defending an obstacle, fieldwork, building or fort.

Militia units with 50% losses or more flee the field  remove from table. Other units with 75% or more losses flee. No further DP losses by friends who see this

Rules I use for Wargaming: Crimean War

   I have been playing "Charge of the Light Brigade" since 2003.  These are home brewed self published rules from the author David Raybin so possibly only a few of you have tried them.   I thought I would share some of my impressions about the rules and how they play.  They provide a fun game which captures the spirit of the period and deserve a wider audience.

You can download a set of the rules here:
https://miniaturewargaming.com/blog/charge-of-the-light-brigade-rules/

  I will state right off I am a big fan of these rules. I like simple rules, but with a twist. I like regiments to look like regiments.  And it is important to me that that a group of colorful miniature soldiers represents such and such a regiment.  I want a game I can play in a evening, gives a period "feel" for the time period played, have fun with and come to a conclusion.  "Charge of the Light Brigade" does all of these.

   The rules are a simple I Go U Go but with a difference.  Each side rolls for initiative with high side getting first go.  If you won the roll last time you add one to your roll.  Each of your regiments or batteries do one action (move, change formation, fire or remove a morale point).  To move roll two dice (or more depending on formation) and that is how far you can move.   After all your units have moved  you may spend a command point (CP) per unit and that unit may do a second thing.

  Here is something that sets this set of rules aside from all others. The author has taken the simple move/counter move system and twisted it. Every unit has a commander (i.e. Colonel). He has so many command points (CP). More if he and the regiment are good, less if mediocare or poor. Russians often get around 8 (sluggish, dull)  while British line get 12 and elite Guards might get as many of 16.  Better units can do more at critical times. But when your CP are gone they are gone.

   OK, now it is your turn, and every unit on your side has done one free action. You may then spend a CP and do something else. Fire, remove a Morale marker or what ever. It gives you a chance to take advantage of something or react to what is happeneing on the table. BUT for every action there is a reaction and the enemy now gets to react against that unit and can either return fire at you or change position/facing.   But only against the enemy that spent that CP.   In a past game a Russian battalion removed a Morale pip by paying a CP. The British reacted by firing at the unit and puting 2 morale pips right on back (darn good shooting with the Guards who rolled four 6's). So you spends your money and takes your chaces.  This portion of the rules is what gets a lot of comments and attention from people who  have played this game for the first time. And rightly so. It is simple, inovative and fun. But I would recommend a GM to run the first few games you try to ensure you all stay on tract and not move ahead.  To track CP I put a sticky note under the command figure stand with the number of that units CP.

  Firing is simple. You throw 1D6 per stand for Infantry and 2D6 per artillery stand. Cross refinance with the firing chart for weapon vs. target and this gives you the chances for a hit. Since there is a possible saving roll you might not lose all those figures hit. Yes, the dreaded saving roll.  But here it takes the place of all those calculations you have to do with other rules.  Watch out for double 6's as they can cause a morale marker to drop onto your unit.  Each infantry stand has four figures. Once all four figures are gone you remove the stand.  Until then the stand fights on.

  To me, the neat thing about this system is that you forget about calculation, tables and charts. Hits, saves and morale are all tied into each other. The save chart also brings a little of the old "national modifiers" into the mix. With Russians, who get saved on a 5 or 6 no matter how many stands are left you have to beat each one with a stick until they are all dead. You get that steady, dogged feeling you read about. The British start with a high save chance (they dodge bullets like the bat man said the rules author) but as they loose stands save chances go way down so they wither away. A little fragile. Poor Johnny Turk never gets a save

   Morale is a sneaky system that most folks don't think a lot about until it bites them! You get a morale pip for any number of things (crossing an obstacle, being fired at or having friends route past you). Since you subtract 1 pip from every die roll morale effects everything you do. Move, shot or fight it ties into morale.  In a past game a Russia commander with three morale markers on a regiment found out fast that he could not shoot, or save casualties with that unit. With morale markers, once you get into trouble it comes fast and furious. To me this is a superior system then used in many rules. The unit is effected, and everything it can do is effected.

   Close Combats takes a bit getting used to since it is very different from most rules. You do not charge like in other rules. You move within 2' of the enemy. THEN, you would have to pay a Command Point or wait till next turn to close and fight. This gives the defender a chance to do something. Like blast the enemy with a close range volley that causes casualties or mabey a morale marker.  It is actually hard to close into close combat due to small arms fire.  But when you do it can be devastating.

  I really love these rules. The game feels like the Crimean to me based on my reading.  Also for a I Go U Go both sides get to do something so no sitting around. In my games Russians tend to form columns (or at least reinforced lines) and try and close with the British quickly.  (One player has nicked named them "Zulu's in overcoats.") Russian artillery is better then the allies and there is a lot of it.  Russian cavalry is, well, sluggish.  The British tend to want to shoot at things. And shoot a lot. Cavalry is small but very aggressive.  By the way small numbers of cavalry will not damage infantry who can usually shoot them down before they close. Many of my games have seen a single British battalion stopping massed charge like at Balaklva.  The French are interesting as their line have muskets while elite troops like Zouaves have rifles and  more CP.  So each army is very different from the other.  You have to work with what you have and get the best out of them.

What rules I use for my games

      War game rules are a very personal thing.  There are numerous sets of rules out there.  Which rules we use with our miniature figures are a deeply personal thing and reflex a lot about us and how we view our games.  It is also something I feel that is great about this hobby of ours.  There is something for everyone.  Find a set of rules that appeal to you and how you would like the game to play.  Stick to them, learn them and enjoy the game. 

      I will state right off I am a big fan of  certain types of rules.  Here is what I look for in a rules set.

       I like simple rules, but with a twist. Mechanisms which create challenges.  You do not need complex rules to do this.  I am thinking of the one brain cells types.  The Disorganization Points (DP) in "Loose Files and American Files" represent a variety of problems to a battalion. They effect fire power and morale much better then complex math formulas.  A simple move first and fire second or fire first and move second also makes for numerous command problems for a player.

       I like regiments to look like regiments.  They should have a good number of figures arrayed in two ranks with regimental colors in the center of the battalion.  A most noble sight!   It is important to me that that a group of colorful miniature soldiers represents such and such a regiment.  The history of that regiment, and what it did in real life means something to me. There is often a reason why I paint the regiments I paint.  After all its why we read and research our chosen periods of time.  Otherwise we could spray paint our figures and he done with it.  And I like to command regiments and brigade.  I enjoy that of game rather then higher command. The rules Volley and Bayonet are a wonderful set and are a fantastic game.  But I cannot relate to the units on the table. It is too abstract for me.  I am happy to play them, but I will not be investing my time and energy bin creating armies for them.  My happy place in miniature wargames is a lower level of command.  Find your level or type of game.

        I want a game I can play in a evening and gives a period "feel" for the time period played. For my Crimean War Rules I want the British to act like British and Russians to be Russians.  I want to have fun, throw lots of dice and occasionally have battalions collapse and run away.  I would like the game to come to a conclusion in a reasonable amount of time.

      In addition, I view my miniature games through the experience of my days in the reenactment community.  My miniatures are dressed alike in as correct uniforms as I can research. But they, like many reenactment regiments are more uniformed and parade ground then in reality.  Regiments advanced across fields and had to stop to dress ranks and restore order.  Men tripped over branches or small holes, got hung up going over fences or fell out when winded. Weapons misfired and needed to be cleared.   Regiments needed to be halted and ranks dressed before advancing again. These are things I think about when moving my battalions.   Do the game mechanics on my table top rules reflex this?  I have read and studied the period manuals and use these.  But the experience of being in a 100 plus man "regiments" also effects my thinking.  Far too often regiments can do things in the table top they could not do in real life.

      I find that individuals who have been in reenactment units view the game and rules in a slightly different vain then pure gamers. They get into what the regiments on the table are doing far more then playing a set of rules.   They get into the spirit of the game if it is historically correct.  Send the Light Brigade down the valley against the Russian guns?  Well if That is my orders, here goes the last of the Brudenells old boy.

      Groups like HMGS talk about recruiting for the hobby of historical wargaming.  my understanding it was created to do so after historical wargamers were marginalized at some conventions.  Many members of this organization feel this should be done by converting fantasy gamers.  Hence the increased number of fantasy games at a historical wargamer convention.  I have always felt there is a bond between reenactors and miniature wargamers.  Something that HMGS has not explored enough to their benefit.  What to I mean? In August 1976 at the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Long Island two wargamers showed up and sold copies of their rule set "1776".  A bunch of us participating at that reenactment bought those rules.  A number of us are still playing miniature wargamers today.  For myself I had long been interested in miniature wargames, I had bought figures But was at a loss how to play.  These were the first serious rules I bought and we played them for a very long time.

        So here are The rules I use for my games. I will described why I liked them and how they play.  If they sound interesting please do try them.  I would enjoy to hear how you found them.  If you already play any of them I would enjoy hearing how you play them and modifications or house rules.

Armistice Day

TIME LIFE PICTURES/US ARMY SIGNAL CORPS/THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY IMAGES

   My grandfather, Edward McNamara from Lexington Massachusetts served with the 101st Regiment (Medical company), 26th Yankee Division in the first world war.  He seldom talked about it, and when he did it was a terrible memory which haunted him.  It was only later that I found out  he was mentioned in the division's orders and was decorated for heroism.  He never mentioned this to me.  I found out later through my own research.  But  I will always remember his smile when he told me how at 11:00 A.M. on 11th November the guns stopped and he and his friends knew they would live, knew they had survived.

   And as this date is now called Veterans Day I say thank you to my father in law, Aldrich Stevens  who served in the  3rd Ranger Battalion (Darby's Rangers) in the Second World War.  He saw service with them at North Africa, Sicily and Italy.  Seriously wounded he did not make the Anzio landing and thus missed the action at Cisterna . like my grandfather he too was haunted by the memories of what he saw, experienced and especialy those he lost. 

I remember their sacrifices and hope both have found peace.

Stuart Asquith

  Sad to hear Stuart Asquith has passed on.  While I have never met Stuart I have many of his books and followed his magazines for many years.  His Practical Wargamer magazine was a great influence in my gaming life.  In a time were there was a push for ever more complex rules and terrain his was a voice for simpler rules and more fun.  I truly enjoyed his spirt of enjoyment with this hobby of ours.  He will be sadly missed.  Thank you for all you have done and shared with us.

Update:  I have removed the image that appeared.  I did not credit the site where I used the image from.  For this I apology.