The Battle of the Four Arms 1814: Introduction

 

  I have noticed I did not play a lot of War of 1812 last year.  Not sure how it happened.  They are one of my favorite armies, and have an incredible toy soldier look and feel to them.  So its time to correct this in justice and put on a game!

Battle of the Four Arms:

   A small force of (British/Canadian) is sent to guard a major cross road.  A larger force (USA) is sent to capture it.  Although the United States forces outnumber the British/Canadian defenders the terrain is not friendly.   A minor stream hinders their deployment. There are a number of fenced in fields that make good positions to defend.  The flanks are protected by woods to the west and a lake to the east.  It will take A few turns to bring superior numbers on to the field.  So the defenders must dig in a fight a delaying action until reinforcements arrive.  Victory goes to the side who holds the cross roads at the end if the game.  

  British/Canadian Army

On the table:

2nd (Light) Brigade: Lt.Col. Parsons

Glengarry Light Infantry. (24) 

Incorporated Militia Upper Canada (24) 

1st Militia Brigade (24) 

2nd Militia Brigade (24)

Mohawk Warriors (12)

Royal Marine Artillery Rocket Battery (light)

19th Light Dragoons

Reinforcements:

at start of game roll 2d6 for turn they enter the game.

3rd Brigade Lt.Col. Morrison

1st Regiment

89th Regiment

100th Regiment

Flank Companies (Light Infantry and Grenadier)

Royal Artillery (medium)

United States Army: Maj.Gen. Brown

Enter on road on south side of table on first turn.  All units in road column.  This is the order of march.

Advanced Corps:

United States Dragons

New York Volunteer Dragons

1st US Rifles 

2nd Brigade: Brig. Gen. Ripley

1st Regiment

21st Regiment

23rd Regiment

5th Regiment

Artillery (medium)

1st Brigade: Brig.Gen. Scott

9th Regiment 

11th Regiment

22nd Regiment

25th Regiment

Artillery (medium)

Rules used are "Mr. Madison's War"

Scale is 25mmm

Game will last 14 turns.

Terrain:  stream is fordable.  Units move up to it and stop.  Next move cross and full move.  

Woods:  Artillery and cavalry can not enter.  Formed units must be at half speed.  Skirmishes move full speed.

Fences provide soft cover.  Takes one move to cross.

Modern maps with historical overlays

 

I am looking for maps of battles or historical events that are superimposed over modern maps.  Unlike the "Birds Eye Views" type maps I posted much earlier these are modern maps or photographs of sites with the troop movement or builds superimposed over them.  

Here are a couple examples of what I am looking for.

Troop movements at the Little Bighorn.

Where the Alamo would be in modern San Antonio.

Queenstown Heights Battlefield

If you know of more please let me know thank you in advance!

Command Post Games Pub Battles

 

Its all Mr Ed's fault.  If I did not read and follow his blog, "Ed M's Wargames Meanderings" I would not have thought about such things.  But following his recent activities playing Big Bloody Battles with the Kriegspiel system of blocks and maps I became interested in the concept.  Maneuvering on a map and fighting large scale games.  I am a miniature, toy soldier type gamers first; but I have also enjoyed board games.  I think we all have memories of the Avalon Hill games.  

In researching this I stumbled on a company called Command Post Games.  They make a series of games called Pub Battles which are fought on historical maps with blocks similar to the Kriegspiel system.  Best of all they do a series of games on the American Revolution battles of Brandywine, Germantown and Monmouth. If you buy the Brandywine game you can use the blocks for the other games and just need to get the maps.   They look interesting and different.  The rules appear to be simple and easily learned. I have decided to give them a try and ordered Brandywine.  Once it arrives I will give a review and let you know how it works.

If you are interested in these the company makes game for the American Civil War and Napoleonic Wars.  There web site is https://www.commandpostgames.com/

If you have played any of these games or are familiar with them I would like to know your opinion.  Please drop me a line and let me know what you think.  All pictures on thus page are from the companies web pages.

Things From The Basement Buildings

 

   After completing the Hartwell Tavern buildings, I took a moment to look over my collection of buildings for the Wargames table.  I do have a lot of the ones from  "Things From The Basement."  These are correct for North America 16th century to very early 19th century.  In other words from King Philips War (1675) through the American Revolution (1775) to the War of 1812.  I then took a few moments to set up and admire them.

Building The Hartwell Tavern Part 3: Painting the Buildings

 

  Now that the buildings are done its time to paint the kit.  The restored tavern is a dark brown in color.  It is not painted but stained.  Some of the trim over the doors and the caulking around the glass is white.  There is a field stone foundation which is gray in color.  

  For the main brown color I stained the building.  This has worked very well for me in the past.  I use Arax Earth shade From Citadel Paint for this.  If I want a dark shade I brush it on right out of the bottle.  For a lighter shade I dilute it with water.  For the tavern I used it right out if the bottle and brushed it on, two coats.  I then slightly sanded parts to give it a worn look.  But very lightly and sparingly.

  Next was the roof which I painted gray to represent the slate shingles.  I think  next time  I will invest in the pre made shingles sold by "TFTB" which are reasonable priced.  the chimneys were painted A dark red brown then dry brushed light red.

To paint the trim and field stones I tackled it each building at a time.  Time consuming but the end result is worth it.

You don't like my sign?
Then get off my lawn you darn kids!

  The final piece is the tavern sign.  On the downloaded instructions there is a Xerox of the original sign which you can cut out and paste on.  I decided to try and paint the sign myself.  How well it turned you you can be the judge. Personally I will not give up my day job.  And the noble looking horse looks more like a big dog.  So perhaps use the xerox instead!

  When done you have a beautiful model if the Hartwell Tavern as it looks today.  This is a very big model and scale wise will take up a lot of your table space.  Possibly better for a one on one skirmish game.  Also remember that only the tavern was in existence in 1775.  So you can put just the main building on the table.  The additions could be set up as a separate building. So you two buildings for the price of one!

Personally I am most pleased with this.  As I mentioned I spent a lot of time here during my time at Minute Man National Historical Park.  Its a excellent model and it was great fun building and painting it.  Come April when I traditionally do a few posts about April 19, 1775 I plan on using this as a back drop for a few stories.

The Hartwell Tavern Part 2: Gambrelle 1783 and kitchen 1830 additions

 

  After construction of the Tavern I set it aside to start the two additions.  The gambrelle addition was added in 1783 to give addition living space for the family.  A new kitchen area was added in the  1830's.   Because both of these additions are part of the restored building many visitors get the wrong impression thus was how the tavern looked on April 19, 1775.  Things From The Basement makes all three sections which you can buy together or separately.  Together these are a very large building for the Wargames table!  But, the economical player can set them up separately to have two or three buildings on the table.  

  In putting this kit together I would once again suggest you fit the parts before gluing. Follow the instructions and you should gave no problem.

  Starting the gambrell section I put together the interior sections of the chimney and stairs.  I added the previously constructed windows and doors.  Once done I carefully added the walls.

  Next was the second floor.  Again fit the chimney together carefully before gluing.  once done it fits snuggly on top if the main floor.  If you use these buildings for skirmish games this is a nice touch as you can remove roofs and floors to battle through the house.

  On the side of the addition is a ground level hatch for a root cellar.  This goes together easily.

The frame for the roof is rather tricky.  I fit it together first, then glued it and then added extra glue along the edges for strength.  Because of the unusual shape there is a lot more careful fitting and gently pushing into place.  Once done fit it into place.  Done!

Moving onto the kitchen wing.   Finish the smaller windows and the details on the doors.  Fit them in to the walls.  Next glue the walls and the support together.  

The roof is very simple and goes together easily.  Again it sits right in top.  You have to decide if you want to permanently attach the roof or let it lift off to put troops inside the house.

So here we are, both additions done.  Now onto painting the structures and sign post.