Battle of the Four Arms: Part 1

  Our game commenced with the British/Canadian Brigade marching on the table on the north and the United States army entering from the south. In addition a second British Brigade could enter the table on either the north or east side road on a turn to be determined by rolling 2d6.   Both sides needed to control the vital cross road by the end of the game.  

  The American army entered the table on its south side.  With the advanced corps leading the way the 1st US Rifles crossed the bridge, and deployed into skirmish line.  The cavalry moved up to the stream, and the next turn crossed.  All three units moved forward to engage the enemy to give the rest of the army time to cross the stream.  

  The rest of the army deployed to the right and left of the bridge.  The 1st Brigade to the left of the bridge, the 2nd Brigade to its right.   The artillery was kept together and moved across the bridge when it was clear.

While this was occurring the British commander deployed his brigade.  Outnumbered he hoped to delay the enemy and buy time for reinforcements to arrive.  The 19th light dragoons were sent to guard the far left flank, while John Norton and his Mohawks occupied the woods on the right flank.  

  The Glengarry light Infantry and Incorporated Militia Regiment moves forward and occupied the fence lines in front of the village while the militia were held in reservee.  The Royal Marine Artillery crew manning the rocket battery held the cross road where it had A very good field of fire.

  Although the cavalry regiments for both sides were tiny, thus do d not stop the players from charging madly about.  On the United States right flank the New York Volunteer Dragoons charged the 19th Light Dragoons, who then counter charged.  The New Yorkers were defeated and fell back.  On the opposite side the US Dragoons charged the Glengarry LI and were shot down and failed their morale.  Not a good day for cavalry.

  The 1st US Rifles got into A shooting match with the Glengarry LI.  Protected by light cover the Glengarry held firm and shot up their opponents.  The rifles were quickly pulled out of a losing effort and sent to deal with the Mohawks.

  The sacrifices of the rifles and dragoons had not been in vain.  By this time most of the United States infantry had crossed the Stream and were advancing towards the cross roads.  The United States Artillery was also unlimbered and targeted  the Canadian regiments behind the fence line.  

  Moving forward the 25th US Infantry charged the Glengarry whole the 1st US charged the Incorporated Militia.  Although they inflicted casulties both Canadian units lose their moral tests and had to fall back.   All along the front the British/Canadian regiments fall back.  

!

  

The Battle of the Four Arms 1814: Introduction

 

  I have noticed I did not play a lot of War of 1812 last year.  Not sure how it happened.  They are one of my favorite armies, and have an incredible toy soldier look and feel to them.  So its time to correct this in justice and put on a game!

Battle of the Four Arms:

   A small force of (British/Canadian) is sent to guard a major cross road.  A larger force (USA) is sent to capture it.  Although the United States forces outnumber the British/Canadian defenders the terrain is not friendly.   A minor stream hinders their deployment. There are a number of fenced in fields that make good positions to defend.  The flanks are protected by woods to the west and a lake to the east.  It will take A few turns to bring superior numbers on to the field.  So the defenders must dig in a fight a delaying action until reinforcements arrive.  Victory goes to the side who holds the cross roads at the end if the game.  

  British/Canadian Army

On the table:

2nd (Light) Brigade: Lt.Col. Parsons

Glengarry Light Infantry. (24) 

Incorporated Militia Upper Canada (24) 

1st Militia Brigade (24) 

2nd Militia Brigade (24)

Mohawk Warriors (12)

Royal Marine Artillery Rocket Battery (light)

19th Light Dragoons

Reinforcements:

at start of game roll 2d6 for turn they enter the game.

3rd Brigade Lt.Col. Morrison

1st Regiment

89th Regiment

100th Regiment

Flank Companies (Light Infantry and Grenadier)

Royal Artillery (medium)

United States Army: Maj.Gen. Brown

Enter on road on south side of table on first turn.  All units in road column.  This is the order of march.

Advanced Corps:

United States Dragons

New York Volunteer Dragons

1st US Rifles 

2nd Brigade: Brig. Gen. Ripley

1st Regiment

21st Regiment

23rd Regiment

5th Regiment

Artillery (medium)

1st Brigade: Brig.Gen. Scott

9th Regiment 

11th Regiment

22nd Regiment

25th Regiment

Artillery (medium)

Rules used are "Mr. Madison's War"

Scale is 25mmm

Game will last 14 turns.

Terrain:  stream is fordable.  Units move up to it and stop.  Next move cross and full move.  

Woods:  Artillery and cavalry can not enter.  Formed units must be at half speed.  Skirmishes move full speed.

Fences provide soft cover.  Takes one move to cross.

Modern maps with historical overlays

 

I am looking for maps of battles or historical events that are superimposed over modern maps.  Unlike the "Birds Eye Views" type maps I posted much earlier these are modern maps or photographs of sites with the troop movement or builds superimposed over them.  

Here are a couple examples of what I am looking for.

Troop movements at the Little Bighorn.

Where the Alamo would be in modern San Antonio.

Queenstown Heights Battlefield

If you know of more please let me know thank you in advance!

Command Post Games Pub Battles

 

Its all Mr Ed's fault.  If I did not read and follow his blog, "Ed M's Wargames Meanderings" I would not have thought about such things.  But following his recent activities playing Big Bloody Battles with the Kriegspiel system of blocks and maps I became interested in the concept.  Maneuvering on a map and fighting large scale games.  I am a miniature, toy soldier type gamers first; but I have also enjoyed board games.  I think we all have memories of the Avalon Hill games.  

In researching this I stumbled on a company called Command Post Games.  They make a series of games called Pub Battles which are fought on historical maps with blocks similar to the Kriegspiel system.  Best of all they do a series of games on the American Revolution battles of Brandywine, Germantown and Monmouth. If you buy the Brandywine game you can use the blocks for the other games and just need to get the maps.   They look interesting and different.  The rules appear to be simple and easily learned. I have decided to give them a try and ordered Brandywine.  Once it arrives I will give a review and let you know how it works.

If you are interested in these the company makes game for the American Civil War and Napoleonic Wars.  There web site is https://www.commandpostgames.com/

If you have played any of these games or are familiar with them I would like to know your opinion.  Please drop me a line and let me know what you think.  All pictures on thus page are from the companies web pages.

Things From The Basement Buildings

 

   After completing the Hartwell Tavern buildings, I took a moment to look over my collection of buildings for the Wargames table.  I do have a lot of the ones from  "Things From The Basement."  These are correct for North America 16th century to very early 19th century.  In other words from King Philips War (1675) through the American Revolution (1775) to the War of 1812.  I then took a few moments to set up and admire them.

Building The Hartwell Tavern Part 3: Painting the Buildings

 

  Now that the buildings are done its time to paint the kit.  The restored tavern is a dark brown in color.  It is not painted but stained.  Some of the trim over the doors and the caulking around the glass is white.  There is a field stone foundation which is gray in color.  

  For the main brown color I stained the building.  This has worked very well for me in the past.  I use Arax Earth shade From Citadel Paint for this.  If I want a dark shade I brush it on right out of the bottle.  For a lighter shade I dilute it with water.  For the tavern I used it right out if the bottle and brushed it on, two coats.  I then slightly sanded parts to give it a worn look.  But very lightly and sparingly.

  Next was the roof which I painted gray to represent the slate shingles.  I think  next time  I will invest in the pre made shingles sold by "TFTB" which are reasonable priced.  the chimneys were painted A dark red brown then dry brushed light red.

To paint the trim and field stones I tackled it each building at a time.  Time consuming but the end result is worth it.

You don't like my sign?
Then get off my lawn you darn kids!

  The final piece is the tavern sign.  On the downloaded instructions there is a Xerox of the original sign which you can cut out and paste on.  I decided to try and paint the sign myself.  How well it turned you you can be the judge. Personally I will not give up my day job.  And the noble looking horse looks more like a big dog.  So perhaps use the xerox instead!

  When done you have a beautiful model if the Hartwell Tavern as it looks today.  This is a very big model and scale wise will take up a lot of your table space.  Possibly better for a one on one skirmish game.  Also remember that only the tavern was in existence in 1775.  So you can put just the main building on the table.  The additions could be set up as a separate building. So you two buildings for the price of one!

Personally I am most pleased with this.  As I mentioned I spent a lot of time here during my time at Minute Man National Historical Park.  Its a excellent model and it was great fun building and painting it.  Come April when I traditionally do a few posts about April 19, 1775 I plan on using this as a back drop for a few stories.